Brundlmayer, Ried Lamm, Austria, Gruner Veltliner, 2016


James Suckling 98/00: Bründlmayer grüner veltliner Lamm used to run at up to 15% alcohol, but I much prefer this cool and reserved interpretation of the site at just 13%. Serious concentration of wild herb character, then the very clean, incredibly long finish make this a stunning wine. Slightly funky (from reduction), this will be better from 2018.

Wine Advocate 92-94/00: Intensely yellow in color, the barrel sample of the 2016 Ried Lamm 1ÖTW Grüner Veltliner offers a very deep and concentrated, slightly oaky but clear, fresh and lemon-flavored bouquet with lime zest and lemon grass aromas. This is a spicy Burgundian style of Grüner Veltliner, and this is also the case on the palate that is dominated by its pure, complex and vital mineral character and its ripe but discreet fruit. The finish (without having any hints of sweetness) reveals great finesse and purity as well as a noble oak quality that reminds me of the finest Cognacs and Armagnacs. The finish is dry, tight, pure and enormously salty, with slight toast aromas and great tension. This is a great Austrian terroir wine that was fermented with natural yeasts in stainless steel, whereas it was aged in partly new and partly used 300-liter barrels and 1200-liter oak casks.

Wine Enthusiast 93/00: Hazelnut-like oak notes still dominate the nose of this wine. The palate counters them with friendly mirabelle plum fruit and ample lemon freshness. This needs time to integrate and unfold but has all the necessary balance and stuffing to do just that. Drink 2020–2030.

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Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner from the famed Heiligenstein slopes are some of the best in the country.

These two quotes encapsulate why Brundlmayer is one of the best Producers in Austria:  “The wine tells everything about the soil, the heat and cold, of storm and rain, the landscape – and the people involved from the beginning.” Willi Brundlmayer.

“The art of wine making consists of understanding a natural product grown on living soil in such a way that the metamorphosis – from vine to grape to juice to wine – is like a melody. The wine tells everything about the soil, the heat and cold, of storm and rain, the landscape – and the people involved from the beginning.” Willi Brundlmayer

Bründlmayer would be the first to admit that the quality and age of his vineyards are central to his reputation. Grüner Veltliner is the main variety here, and his top vineyards are Käferberg and Lamm, in which the clay and loess soil can result in wines of high ripeness and power. Lamm is located on the eastern slopes of the celebrated Heiligenstein, and it’s a warm site that requires a watchful eye to ensure the grapes don’t overripen.

When he took over his parents’ winery, he introduced a policy of ecological winegrowing. Synthetic fertilizers are waived since 1979. Our vineyards are cultivated sustainably, following the Austrian Programme of Sustainable Agriculture and since 2015 in a biological-organic way, certified by LACON. The management of natural resources – soil, sun, water and plants – follows simple and sensible procedures. For instance, pheromones are applied throughout all important sites of the winery in order to disrupt the mating habits of the dangerous grape vine moth. This means that no additional plant protection agents need to be used against the insect. When old vineyards are cleared, the fields are left fallow, for several years if necessary, so that the soil can recover fully.

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